The Truth About Nigeria And Nigerians - British Expat WorkerThe End of an Assignment in Nigeria
Posted on August 22, 2013 by Tim Newman
Okay,
so now I’ve got a post about Melbourne out of the way it’s time for me
to say a little something about Nigeria. With the exception of a week
in October when I need to clear out my apartment, I’ve pretty much left
Nigeria. My assignment there officially finished on 31st July, although
I will have to return for business trips over the course of the next 3
years because the project I am on in Melbourne is for Nigeria.
Somebody
once said that there is much to write about Russia, but when one tries
you can never find the words to write the first line. Nigeria is much
the same, and indeed there are many similarities between the two
countries. I have tried to describe Nigeria to people who have never
been there, and failed on most occasions. A colleague of mine stopped
telling people back home about the place because he was getting a
reputation as somewhat of a bullshitter, even though he didn’t
exaggerate anything. I was at a seminar in Paris some time ago and I
was describing the working life in Nigeria to a group of Frenchmen. One
of them quipped that I was exaggerating and that “it couldn’t be that
bad”, which prompted another Frenchman, sitting beside me, to nudge me
in the ribs and remark “wait until he does his Nigerian assignment”. He
was based in Port Harcourt.
Nigeria has a reputation, and I knew
about it before I arrived. Most of what I’d heard proved to be
completely true. Almost all of it, in fact. To get a general picture
of Nigeria, just read the news, and you’ll not be far wrong. It isn’t a
place like Russia, the US, or France which surprise visitors when they
see the contrast between what they’ve imagined (based on exposure to
their tourists or foreign policy) and the individuals they encounter.
But beyond the general picture, there are some subtleties worth
mentioning.
It’s first important to understand that degree is as
important as form. Russians, faced with criticism of corruption in
their country, often retort that corruption is found everywhere, even in
the UK. Which is true, but in many countries it does not infest every
authority, office, and institute like it does in Russia. It is the
degree, or extent, of corruption which makes Russia different from the
UK, not the form. Understanding this concept is important in describing
Nigeria.
There is no getting away from the fact that corruption
in Nigeria has infested almost every aspect of life, work, and society.
I can’t think of a single area where I didn’t encounter a scam of some
sort. Some of them were pretty normal – policemen hassling motorists
for bribes, for example – with others being less common elsewhere.
Filling brand named alcohol bottles with local hooch was widespread
practice. Not so bad in itself, but these were being sold through
supposedly legitimate suppliers and turning up in established bars.
Others were unique to Nigeria. I knew a guy in charge of oil shipments
for a foreign oil company who received a call from somebody in the
authorities saying he was not going to release the multi-million dollar
cargo until somebody had bought his cousin $10 worth of phone credit.
My acquaintance found himself going to the shop, buying a phone card,
and handing it over to some scruffy bloke who showed up at his office in
order to allow his crude oil out of the country.The corruption, theft, and graft can take many forms: falsifying a CV (I
don’t mean enhancing, I mean pretending you’re a Lead Piping Engineer
of 12 years experience when actually, until yesterday, you were a
fisherman); selling positions in a company; stealing diesel from the
storage tanks you’re paid to protect; issuance of false material
certificates; impersonating an immigration officer to access an office,
from which you then tap up the people within to fund your latest
venture; selling land which isn’t yours; deliberately running down the
country’s refining capacity in order to partake in the lucrative import
of fuels; falsifying delivery notes of said refined fuels in order to
receive greater government subsidies; deliberately restricting the
country’s power generation capacity in order to benefit from the
importation of generators (which must be run on imported fuel); theft of
half-eaten sandwiches and opened drink containers from the office
fridge; tinkering with fuel gauges at petrol stations to sell customers
short; conspiring with company drivers to issue false receipts
indicating more fuel was supplied than actually was; supplying
counterfeit safety equipment; falsifying certificates related to
professional competence (e.g. rope access work); paying employees less
than stipulated in their contract (or not at all); cloning satellite TV
cards, meaning the legitimate user gets their service cut off when the
other card is in use (the cards are cloned by the same people who issue
the genuine cards); the list is literally endless. There is no
beginning or end to corruption in Nigeria, it is a permanent fixture.
Nepotism
is rife: family members are employed and promoted before anyone else.
Outright theft is rife: from a pen lying on a desk, to billions from
the state coffers. Dishonesty is rife: from the state governors to the
street urchin, lying to enrich yourself is the norm. You name the scam,
it is being done in Nigeria. Eventually, nothing surprises you.
As I said before, you’ll find such practices everywhere, but to nowhere near the extent found in Nigeria.
Apparently
it wasn’t always like this. There was a time, probably from around the
1970s to 1990s, when Nigeria had a reasonably diverse economy. Besides
the oil and gas, they had agriculture, manufacturing and assembly
(Peugeot set up an assembly plant in Nigeria in the mid-1970s), brewing
(there is a both a Guinness and a Heineken brewery), refining,
construction, and pharmaceuticals. Some of these survive today. There
were decent universities, and students wishing to graduate had to apply
themselves. Security wasn’t much of a concern to the average citizen.I don’t know the details, but at some point in the 1990s one of the
military dictators decided to flood the place with oil money in order to
buy support. This had the effect of drowning every other form of
enterprise and ensuring that oil and gas was the only game in town.
This is bad in itself, but by no means unique to Nigeria. What was
worse is that this quickly instilled a mentality across Nigeria that
there was a lot of money up for grabs, and getting your hands on it
wasn’t in any way related to honest efforts or applying yourself to
something constructive. Nigeria became a place where if you’re not
getting your hands on some of the oil money, either directly or
indirectly, then you’re going nowhere. With oil money washing over the
whole country like a tidal wave, soon everyone was trying to secure
their own piece of the action, using fair means or foul. Imagine
throwing a huge box of sweets into a playgroup shouting “Grab what you
can!”, and the chaos that ensues will be similar to what happened to
Nigeria on a national scale.
At least, this is what I gather
happened – I may be wrong – but for sure, the current situation reflects
what I’ve described. The economy is funded almost exclusively from oil
and gas revenues, and everything else is merely feeding off that. The
new hotels in Lagos, the growth of capital city of Abuja, the
importation of luxury goods, the Audi and Porsche dealerships, the
sky-rocketting real estate prices, the money earmarked for
infrastructure projects, the increase in flight passengers, all of it is
directly or indirectly linked to the oil money. Okay, maybe there is
some hyperbole in there. Agriculture still makes up the lion’s share of
GDP, and the services sector is booming. Advertising is a big industry
in Lagos, although the most common thing you see advertised is
advertising space. But nobody is going to get anywhere herding cattle,
picking pineapples, or working in a sawmill. Even the owners won’t be
earning that much, not if that’s their only income. There is very
little opportunity to get rich, or even advance, unless you are somehow
connected to the supply of oil money.
One of the results of this
national free-for-all is the formation of groups, societies,
associations, and unions whose raison d’ĂȘtre is to obtain as much money
and benefits for their members as possible. This isn’t much different
from Europe in respect of trade unions, but groups and subgroups form at
micro-levels with sometimes comical precision. The Lagos Association
of Road Maintenance Engineers, Roundabout and Lay-by Division, 4th
Department. The Nigerian Association of Water Truck Drivers, Lagos
Chapter. Membership of one or more of these associations is both
essential and compulsory: essential because an individual would get
trampled very quickly in the general melee of Nigeria, and compulsory in
the sense that you have almost no chance of being allowed to quietly
ply your trade without paying dues to some group or other. It’s not
clear what the legal standing of a lot of these groups is, but it’s
often hard to tell how they differ from a standard extortion racket.
One of the most powerful unions in Lagos, the transport union, used to
shake down any okada (motorcycle taxi) driver passing through their
checkpoints, claiming the money was used “to protect them from the
police”. I doubt the money was used in such a manner, but people do
need protection from the police in Lagos. Not that the okada drivers
had any say in the matter: membership was automatic, and the union
muscle would beat any non-compliant driver or confiscate his vehicle.
The power of the oil and gas workers unions is legendary, ensuring
their members enjoy pay and benefits which are the highest of any local
staff in the world, and often outstrip those of the expatriates.This in itself might not be so damaging, but ubiquitous to all competing
factions is a rapacity the likes of which I doubt can be found anywhere
else on such a scale. There is a culture so prevalent that it is a
defining characteristic of Nigeria whereby no amount is ever enough, and
no sum too small to be pilfered. There comes a point in the career of
most people who have gotten rich, either legitimately or otherwise,
where they stop chasing the small stuff and are only interested in
adding to their pile if the increase will be substantial. The police
chief of a sizeable Thai resort town has his fingers in many pies, but
he’s not interested in shaking down street vendors. His minions might
in order to supplement their salaries, but generally once the boss has
his cut of most of the action, he’s not interested in sweeping up every
last baht. As a result, commerce can continue relatively unmolested.
The same is roughly true amongst the Sheikhs of the Middle East. Bung
the Crown Prince a few million for the contract, and he’ll allow the
project activities to go ahead pretty freely. He’s not interested in
making an extra $10k by insisting you hire his brother’s lorry fleet to
transport the gravel. Such restraint may also be practical: the dodgy
official in the UK isn’t going to be interested taking pennies if he
risks getting fired or going to jail, he’ll have a minimum price he’ll
work for.
But Nigeria has the same problem I saw in Russia: an
almost pathological insistence of securing for yourself 100% of
everything that is available, and not a kopek or kobo less. I have
observed before that Russians would rather have 100% of nothing than 50%
of something, and the same is true – but on a far greater scale – in
Nigeria. The inequality in Nigeria is horrific. The middle-classes are
tiny, those who are neither stinking rich nor mired in poverty. As it
happens, most of the Nigerians I worked with fell into this category:
lucky enough to have well-paying jobs, but not ordering Porsche Cayennes
for each family member. Statistically, almost all Nigerians are dirt
poor. A very few are stinking rich. Again, a manageable problem in
itself, but the rich haven’t finished yet. Indeed, they’re only just
getting started. I spoke to a couple of Angolans in a seminar once, and
they said that although their ruling classes had enriched themselves
immeasurably, they were at least spending some money on the country, and
improvements were noticeable. The reason the Russians accept with a
shrug the siloviki helping themselves to millions is because they
(rightly) feel this is inevitable and – more importantly – life is
actually improving in Russia and has been doing so since they came to
power. Sure, it’s a slow improvement and life is still hard, but they
are at least moving in the right direction (for how long is a discussion
for another post). There have been improvements in infrastructure in
Russia, the new Sheremetovo airport to name one example.By contrast – and I challenge any Nigerian reading this to disagree –
there have been no discernible improvements in Nigeria in the past
decade (outside of Abuja, where all the politicians happen to live).
The infrastructure is crumbling, electricity shortages abound, Lagos
airport is a national disgrace, project after project gets sanctioned
but rarely started, never mind completed, before the funds disappear,
and unemployment is rocketing. I heard somewhere that 2m people are
added to the workforce every year in Nigeria. To do what, exactly?
There are no jobs. One source of employment for young men was to drive
okadas, until they abruptly got banned in Lagos last year. The roads
are now much better, but you now have tens of thousands of young men
with no source of income and no hope for a job. Since the ban came into
effect, crime – robberies, car-jackings, burglaries – have increased by
an order of magnitude, even in the rich neighbourhoods of Lagos
previously thought to be safe. It’s not difficult to see why.
Meanwhile,
Nigerian senators – of whom there are 109 – enjoy an official package
worth $1.5m per year, which they recently requested to be increased to
$2.2m per year. By contrast, the US President gets an annual salary of
$400k. Given the unofficial incomes of a Nigerian senator through graft
and backhanders is probably 3-5 times that, we can probably estimate
most of these guys are taking home something in the order of $4-5m each
year. Yet they put in for a 46% increase, in a country where 45% of the
population lives beneath the poverty line. This is hardly
surprising for a group of politicians, and far from unique to Nigeria.
The problem is, this behaviour is repeated through every strata of
society from the very top of the government to the lowest street urchin:
whatever is there, I want all of it; and I want more. I saw wealthy
middle-class Nigerians move to ensure drivers did not enjoy a fringe
benefit worth about $10 per week. If you threatened to report a
low-level official for corruption, he would usually tremble with fear of
his boss finding out: not because his boss shuns corruption, but
because he will want to know why the proceeds of this particular scam
haven’t been coming to him. We already had the example of a
multi-million dollar oil cargo being held up until somebody’s relative
received a kick-back worth $10. If any amount of new money arrives in
the economy – due to a new oil project, for example – those who are
already wealthy, via their societies, organisations, unions, and
political connections will ensure 100% of that new money will go to
them. Insofar as sharing and dividing the spoils goes, it is between
groups who are already of the same wealth. If any trickles down to the
next layer, it is almost by accident, and to be corrected at the first
opportunity.I came to the conclusion about 2 years into my assignment that Nigeria
is probably the only genuinely classless society I have seen. Class is
very different from wealth. Upper class people can be dirt poor
(bankrupt dukes) and lower class people can be fabulously rich (Russian
oligarchs). Class is about behaviour and attitudes, not wealth (a point
made very well in Kate Fox’s excellent book Watching the English). And
insofar as behaviour goes, I didn’t see a shred of difference between
the top politicians, down through the officials in the national
authorities, through the middle class professionals, through the service
providers, right down to the area boys. The behaviour was identical
across all strata: I want more money, and I will do absolutely anything
to get it. If you were to replace the politicians – let’s say our 109
senators from before – with 109 random people from the Nigerian
citizenry, you would get no change in behaviour. You could repeat the
experiment a thousand times, and you would get no change. There is no
ruling class in Nigeria, there is just a set of rulers. Where any
change is expected to come from I don’t know.
I believe one of
the root causes is the bizarre situation where being dishonest is not
socially frowned upon. Not really, anyway. If somebody is caught with
his hand in the till, he is not shunned by his peers. The whole
situation is treated with utter indifference, and sometimes admiration
(if the scam is particularly imaginative). Societal pressure plays an
enormous role in shaping the behaviour of a population, probably more so
than the brute force of the law, and whilst all Nigerians complain
about the crime and dishonesty so prevalent in their country (it affects
them far more than the expats), they remain utterly silent when a
perpetrator is identified from within their peer group. At best, you’ll
get a shrug and a statement to the effect of “that’s just how it is”.
If you’re a Nigerian caught running a scam against your employer, your
colleagues aren’t going to think any less of you.
In fact, the
only behaviour I managed to identify which would cause a Nigerian to be
shunned by his peers and made an outcast, is if he decided he wasn’t a
believer and therefore wasn’t going to be showing up in church (or
mosque) any more. I don’t think I met a single Nigerian who didn’t
attend either church or mosque, and religion plays an enormous –
possibly the key – role in Nigerian society. I’m not going to go into
this topic, mainly because I’m not reflexively anti-religion, but I do
suspect that a lot of Nigerians justify unsavoury behaviour during the
week by going to church on Sunday and washing themselves of sin. In
this respect, the place is very similar to the Gulf States.Now a reminder of what I said at the beginning of this post. Degree
matters. You will find every type of individual in Nigeria, including
the kind, funny, generous, honest, and everything else that is good in a
person. You’ll find lots of them too. I had the pleasure of working
with some great individuals, who were genuinely skilled, could apply
themselves, held positions on merit, and were extremely well-mannered
and respectful. The team of Nigerians I managed was one of the nicest
bunch of people you’d ever hope to meet, and easy to manage as well.
(My theory is that engineers are often like this: if you’re bone-idle
and want to earn money dishonestly, there are easier things to do than
an engineering degree.) The problem these decent people have is that
they are vastly outnumbered by those who are not. For every Nigerian
who is honest, well-mannered, and diligent you’ll find a hundred whose
only goal is to get some money whilst expending the minimum amount of
effort possible. If they can use personal connections, lies, or
trickery in lieu of learning a useful skill and applying it, they’ll
take that option every time. It’s a numbers thing: if 50% of Nigerians
were more like 10% of them, the country would be okay. And that’s the
fundamental problem of Nigeria summed up in one sentence: way too many
dickheads.
When I was bored in our morning meetings – which was
on most days – I would canvas my team’s opinion on certain things, often
the state of the country. They were by and large in despair.
Nigerians are famously optimistic, but this is often through
desperation. Nowhere was this better demonstrated than on the occasion
when a bank put a Christmas tree up on a roundabout with “presents” at
the bottom, and the next morning all the presents had been ripped open.
If somebody thinks a box under a tree on a roundabout contains an
X-Box, then you’ve gone way beyond optimism and into desperation or
delusion.My lads were a happy enough bunch – as Nigerians usually are – but had
no hope of things getting better any time soon. I ventured the
suggestion that a return to military dictatorship might be on the cards,
and I got no objection. One of them explained that during the times of
military dictatorship, it was only a handful of people at the top
creaming off money. Now, with democracy, it’s tens of thousands. And
during the military dictatorship, crime was much lower, and few had
concerns about personal security. Democracy is all well and good, but
I’ve often said that it is a means to an end, not an end in itself. I
am sure the world will howl with outrage and impose sanctions should
Nigeria undergo another military coup, but few can deny that democracy
is failing to deliver peace, prosperity, and basic services to Nigeria.
I remain far from convinced that many Nigerians would not welcome such
an event.
So what did I think of my time in Nigeria? In truth, I
didn’t like it, but not for the reasons you might think. The worst
thing, by far, was not being able to go anywhere and do anything at the
weekends. The security situation did not allow us to travel beyond a
very restricted area of Lagos, and even if we could there wasn’t much to
do. I like walking about with a camera, camping, exploring by going to
a town and drinking lots, skiing, driving around, visiting people,
riding a bike, and hill walking. There was no scope to do any of that
in Lagos, for reasons usually related to security. That meant for
weekend after weekend after weekend there was nothing to do but watch
sport on TV, go to the gym, and lie by the pool. Those with families
did whatever families do; the single guys went to bars and clubs and
picked up Nigerians girls; guys like me – married, single status –
didn’t do very much at all. I used the time well, learned French, read
countless books, improved on the guitar, and got fit. Nigeria has
excellent weather, and even better pineapples, but I would much rather
have spent my time doing something else in another place.
Those
restrictions were by far the worst aspect of my Nigerian assignment.
Insofar as the daily life in Lagos went, with all its challenges, that
was manageable. You get used to anything eventually, and at some point I
was able to shrug off almost everything Nigeria had to throw at me. I
never quite got used to the traffic, so used to plan my day to avoid the
worst of it. Dealing with the Nigerians took some getting used to, a
process that was eased considerably when I figured out they weren’t the
most difficult factor to consider. There’s rarely any point in getting
upset about locals anywhere, because they are the raw material you have
to work with. If you go to Nigeria, you will have to work with
Nigerians, so deal with it. Some aspects of it were frustrating no
doubt, but what can I do? Nothing.
What infuriated me more was that some of the expats I encountered were hopelessly unqualified and too inexperienced to be there.
Nigeria is a difficult place to attract talent to, and as such – like a
lot of oil towns worldwide – those who end up coming are usually way
below the standard that should be demanded. Unbelievably, incompetence
and stupidity seem to be imported at great expense into Nigeria. This
annoyed me considerably, as it did when I encountered a similar state of
affairs in Sakhalin. If you are going to come into somebody else’s
country on the basis that you have skills they don’t, you’d better make
damned sure you have those skills and they are on full view. If I had a
quid for every time I’ve seen somebody fail this basic test in the oil
business, I could retire and bump yachts in Monaco with Roman
Abramovich. I’m pretty sure I upset a few people in Nigeria, and maybe
there were a few who didn’t want me there, but nobody could accuse me of
not adding value. Nobody could point the finger at me and ask “Why,
exactly, do we keep this guy?” If nobody else, the lads in my team
didn’t mind me. I gave them direction, support, and cover and got
somewhere close to the best out of them. What infuriated me more than
anything was coming across a Nigerian with a reputation for being
useless, and on further investigation learning that they’d never been
given a job description, never been given any meaningful direction, had
no understanding of the context of their job in the department or the
department in the company, and had just been plonked at a desk and
expected to do something. I came across this far more than I should
have, and it pissed me off. Fair enough, if somebody is useless then
call them useless; but first you have to give them every opportunity to
succeed, and only then can you call them useless if they don’t perform.
Hey, you could even call this practice management! There was a serious
lack of it in Nigeria. How many half-decent Nigerians are shoved in
the corner of an office and written off as useless in this manner I
don’t know, but I’ll bet it’s a lot, and it does the place a serious
disservice.
As final proof that I didn’t dislike the place that
much, I signed up to another 3 years of involvement when I had the
opportunity to get out away from Nigeria for good. I learned some
things during my assignment in Lagos, and that knowledge is useful. I
know Nigeria, and what it’s like to work with Nigerian companies and
Nigerian people on a Nigerian project. A lot of people don’t. I’m used
to it, it doesn’t hold any mystery or reason for fear as it did when I
first arrived almost 3 years ago.
I’ll be back there at various
points in the future, but honestly I hope I don’t have to live there
permanently again for the reasons I stated. I don’t consider it 3 years
wasted – far from it – and I didn’t hate it. There were moments,
plenty of them, where I positively enjoyed it. And as assignments to
Nigeria go, that’s not too bad.
Source:-
http://www.desertsun.co.uk/blog/?p=1734